Wednesday, October 21, 2009

Plaid lads

Tartan or plaid fabrics consist of criss crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors. They are especially popular for the fall, perhaps because of its association with woolen and flannel clothing. Tartan has close associations to Scotland and Scottish kilts. Famous plaid wearing men include:















From left to right: Grunge rocker Kurt Cobain, Groundskeeper Willie (Scot) from the Simpsons TV show, actor Ewan McGregor (Scot) and alt country rocker Ryan Adams.

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Hot ski sweaters

I love pretty 1980s knit winter sweaters. They make me think of ski lodges, drinking hot cocoa and the fantasy scene in one of my old favorite movies, "Dumb and Dumber":













You can enjoy the whole scene here:



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The girl can't help it (wiggle dress)

"If she walks by, the men folk get engrossed,
(she can't help it, the girl can't help it)
If she walks by, the bread slice turns to toast,
(she can't help it, the girl can't help it)"
-"The girl can't help it", Little Richard

The "wiggle" dress is a dress with a tight, tapered skirt that doesn't allow for normal-sized steps, forcing the wearer to "wiggle" as she walks. Popular among blonde bombshells like Jayne Maynsfield and Marilyn Monroe, the dress enhanced a sexy hourglass shape. The dress is experiencing a resurgence in popularity because of shows like AMC's Mad Men. Its appeal is no surprise if you look at Jayne's wiggle in "The Girl Can't Help It":


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Granny chic

Now, I don't want to anger the villagers of Cougartown, but when I grow older, I hope to dress and act my age. I find it strange to see 40+ year old women in college bars, or Facebook pictures of girls on their 21st+ birthdays taking shots of tequila with their mother in a Las Vegas night club. I've always imagined myself at that age wearing cashmere suits and pearls with kitty heels, not sequined Cache dresses, cake makeup and stilettos.

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A short aside: frugalista

The term "fashionista" has produced some evil wordspawn in the form of "recessionista", "frugalista", and "Maxxinista" (referring to fashionable TJ Max shoppers) to name a few. One Miami Herald blogger has even trademarked the word "frugalista" and is sending letters to other bloggers instructing them to cease referring to themselves as frugalistas. Hopefully that's where this word will die. If I hear another person other than these marketing geniuses refer to themselves or anyone else as some kind of value shopping-ista, I will go bananas.

I'm waiting for someone to coin a term for vintage enthusiasts. How about vintageocrats? Or vintagiennes?

For all you bargain-hunting vintageocrats, you make like:

The indestructible coat

Today I found a men's wool coat that I am confident would survive a nuclear holocaust. The world would be on fire, and this coat would stand alone. It is solidly woven charcoal gray wool coat made by the Kleinhans in Buffalo, New York. I looked in one of the pockets and saw a faded label which looked like an old union label, except with an eagle on it and the words: "Produced Under the NRA Code Authority." I thought, that's weird, the National Rifle Association has its own manufacturing dress code? It didn't look like any hunting jacket I've ever seen. Eric needed a wool coat to wear over his suits in New York so I bought it for him.

I researched the manufacturing label when I got home. NRA didn't stand for the National Rifle Association, but the National Recovery Administration, one of the New Deal agencies under President Franklin D. Roosevelt. From Britannica.com:

"U.S. government agency established by President Franklin D. Roosevelt to stimulate business recovery through fair-practice codes during the Great Depression. The NRA was an essential element in the National Industrial Recovery Act (June 1933), which authorized the president to institute industry-wide codes intended to eliminate unfair trade practices, reduce unemployment, establish minimum wages and maximum hours, and guarantee the right of labour to bargain collectively."

The NRA was declared unconstitutional in 1935 by the US Supreme Court and these labels were only used from 1932-1935! I hope I look this good at 74+ years.

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Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Moving Sale! Help lighten our load and get cool stuff!

We try not to shamelessly promote our store too often on our blog, but we are getting ready to move to NYC next week and need to reduce our inventory (as well as our overall stuff - where did I get all this stuff?!?!). So, we have temporarily (till we complete our move) slashed prices on most of the items in our etsy shop, such as those pictured below. Please go check it out and tell your friends: http://vintagesuits.etsy.com

Thanks!

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Saturday, October 17, 2009

Amelia Earhart: Fashion Mogul?

There’s a new movie coming out staring Hillary Swank as Amelia Earhart, who was most famous for being the first female pilot to fly solo across the Atlantic. Seeing the below trailer reminded me of an article I read a couple months ago in the Huffington Post about how Earhart started a clothing line in order to fund her record breaking flying career.



From the Huffington Post article:
Earhart and her husband convinced the U.S. Rubber Company that her name would sell, and Amelia Earhart Fashion, underwritten by the tire enterprise, debuted in 1934. The clothes were offered in special Amelia Earhart shops in a single department store per city (in New York, Macy's and in Chicago, Marshall Field's). The label, sewn into each garment, featured the aviatrix's signature in black with a thin red line streaking through it to a little red plane soaring in the right corner.

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Thursday, October 15, 2009

Everchanging clothes of the female form divine

One of my all time favorite films is George Cukor's "The Women." The movie features an all-female cast, while the story is all about the men in their lives. One interesting scene is where the women are in a department store to watch a fashion show and the black and white film abruptly changes to color, showcasing the 1940s fashion of the future:



The highlights:
- A mannequin hand "brooch" with a diamond ring
- Monkeys wearing similar fashions as the models
- A model with fur gloves, a fur back and a fur hat that made her look like a monkey from behind
- A halter reaching up into a turban and ending in a clear, conical hat.
- A woman with what looks like gilded egg beaters on the backs of her gloves closes the show

US retailers imported the fashion show concept from Paris in the early 1900s and gained widespread popularity by the 1920s, hitting its peak around mid-century. These shows were theatrical productions - hence the "picnicking Southern Belles" and "women at the opera" you see in this clip from "The Women." The models here are all smiles - compare that with the scowling coat hangers that walk the runway today.

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1980s: What used to clash now goes together

"Mainstream has hit the rocks, outrage has finally come of age...what used to clash now goes together" rasps Dr. John in "New Looks" written by John Bettis Music, featured on National Lampoon's European Vacation soundtrack. I challenge you to come up with a more poignant description of 80's fashion:



The scene's depiction of the average American Griswold family wearing Italian couture is priceless. The song and lyrics are awesome and to my knowledge is just in the movie - not officially released by the performer.

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Real men wear cardigans

Mental_floss blog did "15 Reasons Mister Rogers Was the Best Neighbor Ever". Definitely worth a read - I had no idea that he was such an amazing guy and would be happy to have him live in my own house! He wrote over 200 songs, was exceedingly kind and tolerant. Maybe it's time to throw off those Ed Hardy jackets and Armani Exchange blazers for something a real man would wear - a cardigan knitted by your own mother. Apparently, Mister Rogers's mother knitted every sweater he wore on the show.



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Wednesday, October 14, 2009

It's a nice day for a (vintage) wedding

I've been buying vintage for myself for about 10 years . So when it came to planning my wedding, I had a good idea of the type of dress I wanted to wear: white, tea length (falling just below the knee) and corset top, off shoulder or three quarter length sleeve. Something garden appropriate and would translate into a good, comfortable reception dress. If I can't find one in person, I know I can find vintage Ceil Chapman or Priscilla of Boston online for under $1,000 - a decent price for a (hopefully) once in a lifetime dress.

Vintage weddings are becoming more trendy as eco and budget conscious brides (and grooms) think of ways to reduce their wedding budget and environmental impact while creating a unique and stylish event for their guests. I love browsing Etsy - the go-to website for handmade and vintage wedding items. I also love reading http://greenweddingshoes.blogspot.com/. It has awesome photos from handmade and vintage weddings. These tell me that not every cake needs to be a white fondant covered monstrosity, nor does every bride need to be a princess in pearls and beaded bodice (not that there is anything wrong with that).

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The one before you left me so damaged

How many times have you walked up to a vintage dress and thought, "Oh, this is so cute!" And then on closer examination, notice that it has an unfortunate tear or stain. In some cases, it's a simple fix of Oxyclean or Zout, or maybe a subtle mend. In others, it's irreparable, tragic. A few months ago I found the most beautiful dress I've ever seen in person - a 1980s boutique Bob Mackie gown...with some moderate yellowing on the bottom left side. From what I've seen, these gowns retailed from $5,000 to $15,000 - this one was full length, with tones of gold, beige and cream and thousands of beads and rhinestones (nearly 7 pounds). 100% silk and handmade - I probably see 15-20 besequined and bedazzled dresses a week and there has been nothing like it and I doubt I will see another in my life. I bought it, hoping to revive the dress and have it wow another crowd.

I thought I could shorten the gown and make it into a mini-dress - solving the problem of the stain (silk is so difficult to clean! + beads = impossible). Bob Mackie in fact designed costumes for Tina Turner. But there was something about altering the original design that made me heartsick. Thankfully my mother fit into the gown and decided she would like to wear it as is.

Today, there are many designers that will use vintage clothing to make new clothing, known as reconstructed vintage. Urban Outfitters actually has an entire line devoted to this type of clothing, called Urban Renewal - "totally one-of-a-kind — handcrafted in Philadelphia from vintage, deadstock and surplus materials sourced from around the world." Pretty cool, huh? Although I would rather find a slightly damaged Mackie or Dior dress a good home (who can overlook its subtle flaws) than dare cut up a master's vision.

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Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Girls and their handbags

Why are women so crazy about their handbags? The Hermes Burkin bag has a two year wait list. Handbags are used to hold wallets, cell phones, gum, breath mints, lipstick, feminine hygiene products, compacts, and/or digital cameras. They have a practical purpose. Then there are those of us that adore its lines, the leather smell and the soft textures. They herald these accessories as works of art, symbols of who they are and who they want to be. Classic and versatile, like a Louis Vuitton speedy. Rich and flashy like a Fendi clutch. Or if you can't decide and have too much money, you might pick up the Louis Vuitton Patchwork Tribute bag, made from 15 different Louis Vuitton handbags.

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